| 摘要: | 近年來，因環保意識的抬頭，各大運動品牌都注意到了紡織產生的塑膠微粒的議題，2017年，由IUCN（International Union for Conservation of Nature,國際自然保護聯盟）提出海洋中有絕大比例的塑膠微粒的釋放量，是來自於紡織品經家用洗衣機洗滌後，排入水中造成的污染[1]。刷毛布因布面起絨的效果，具有保暖及厚實感，這樣的起絨織物，在每年秋冬流行趨勢中，皆能在街上、服飾店裡陳列櫃上，看到他們的身影，但根據部分研究指出刷毛、搖粒絨的布樣，因布面經過破壞加工，可能加重織物其微纖維的釋放情形，使其微纖掉落的議題，更受到矚目。本研究主要以不同條數的聚酯雙面PK布，在各個刷毛、梳毛、剪毛及搖粒等加工過程中，研究掉纖情形之分析。由起毬實驗、刷毛加工端數據顯示出，較低條數比較高條數來的掉纖多的情形。根據模擬家庭式水洗測試，未刷原樣，具有較大微纖掉落量。T150/144高條數的掉纖量明顯大於低條數T150/96，這是因烘乾機對於刷毛面纖維熱能的削弱纖維所致。在起毛工藝方面，梳毛及剪毛工藝的家庭式水洗微纖維釋放量大於刷毛及搖粒工藝。實驗室微纖掉纖測試數據顯示，水洗部分，較低條數的單根纖維較重造成了較高的掉纖情形。由SEM掃描式電子顯微鏡分析及光學顯微鏡結果顯示，未刷原樣與刷後試樣相比，未刷原樣織物表面毛羽較多，且刷後試樣相微相互糾纏呈現出相互糾纏的情形，此觀察解釋了未刷原樣比刷後試樣的微纖釋放量，呈現出較大的結果。
In recent years, due to the rise of environmental awareness, major sports brands have paid attention to the issue of microplastics produced by textiles. In 2017, IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) proposed that the release of a large amount of microplastics in the ocean comes from the pollution caused by textiles being washed by household washing machines [1]. The fleece fabrics has a warm and thick feeling due to the fleece effect of the cloth surface. Such fleece fabrics can be seen on the street or on display cabinets in clothing stores in the fashion trend of autumn and winter every year. However, according to some studies, it is pointed out that the fabric samples of brush and polar fleece may aggravate the release of microfibers in the fabric due to the destruction of the cloth surface. The issue of causing the microfibers to fall has attracted more attention. This research mainly uses polyester double-sided PK cloth with different numbers, in the processing process of each brush, card, cut and pill, etc. Study the analysis of its fiber loss situation. According to the pilling test and the bristle processing end data, low sliver counts produce more dropped microfibers than high sliver counts. According to the simulated home washing test, the sample without bristles has a larger amount of microfiber drop. In terms of raising, the amount of home-washed microfiber released in the carding and cutting process is greater than that in the brushing and pilling process. The fiber loss of the high number of T150/144 is significantly higher than that of the low number of T150/96, which is caused by the weakening of the heat energy of the fibers on the bristle surface by the dryer. The laboratory microfiber loss test data shows that in the water-washed part, the samples with low sliver counts have higher fiber loss rates, which may be caused by the heavier single fibers of the samples with low sliver counts. The SEM (scanning electron microscope, SEM) analysis and optical microscope results show that the un-brushed fabric has more hairiness on the surface than the brushed sample. And the entangled fibers of the brushing samples showed a situation of mutual entanglement. This observation explains the higher amount of microfiber released from the un-brushed as-received than the brushed sample, which presents a higher result. |
