摘要: | 韓流旋風之下,台灣人開始對韓國文化感興趣,受到影響最深的為韓國飲食。說到韓國飲食,第一想起的就是─韓國泡菜,到底韓國泡菜是什麼呢?韓國飲食文化從新石器時代農業開始發展後,已有五千年的歷史,韓國泡菜的變遷過程可分成三國與統一新羅時期、高麗時期、朝鮮時期,以及現代。最早出現韓國泡菜的歷史記載為《三國志》<魏志東夷傳>,在高句麗篇中,記載高句麗人已會使用鹽巴將蔬菜脫水製作成食品以利保存。影響韓國泡菜變化的最重要的時期在朝鮮時期辣椒傳入之後,成為現在常見紅通通的韓國泡菜。醃製食品並不是韓國特有的,其他國家因不同的自然環境和文化特性發展出不一樣的醃製食品,如:中國泡菜、日本漬物。中國泡菜相關文獻最早出現在《詩經》,「菹」為泡菜的古漢字,解釋為醡菜,也就是有酸味的蔬菜;而日本漬物的最初文獻為《正倉院古文書》,其中出現「須須保利漬」一詞,為百濟人須須保利將醃製技術帶入日本後,利用技術製作的醃製食品,故醃製技術由中國傳入韓國,再由韓國傳入日本。
每個地區隨著自然環境條件不同,發展地區性的韓國泡菜文化,如:江原道的明太魚泡菜、京畿道的包泡菜。即使現代生活忙碌,大部分韓國人每天還是需要吃泡菜,為了維持供給量,在冬季來臨之前必須事先醃好大量的韓國泡菜,故形成「沈藏泡菜文化」並列入為世界無形文化遺產之一。除此之外,團體供食需求增加且科技不斷地進步,1900年代開始出現韓國泡菜加工廠,並在1993年首次開發韓國泡菜冰箱。韓國泡菜不僅是餐桌上的一樣配菜,更是融入在韓國人的生活中,成為了一種習慣,就如台灣人吃稀飯配肉鬆,韓國人吃泡麵的時候也要配韓國泡菜。因此,本研究透過調查發現,韓國人對韓國泡菜的喜好與依賴程度高,且女性的比例高於男性;中年層的依賴度大於年輕層,但對於韓國泡菜的歷史知識與文化意識尚不足,要如何提高韓國人對自國的飲食文化意識,將會是未來研究韓國泡菜可探討的議題。
Under the influence of Korean pop culture, Taiwanese people are also starting to be intrigued by what has deeply affected the world – Korean food. When it comes to Korean food, Kimchi might firstly come to your mind. Since the farming era started in New Stone Age, Kimchi has played an important role in Korean culture for nearly five thousand years. The transformation of modern day Kimchi could be seen in different phases – Three Kingdoms of Korea, Unified Silla, Goryeo, Joseon, and the present time. People from Goguryeo back then already knew how to preserve vegetables by draining them with salt.
The earliest written record of Kimchi in Korean history was in Wei Zhi Dong Yi Zhuan, Records of the Three Kingdoms. In Joseon time, chillis were imported to Korea and it was added into what is mostly seen red in Kimchi today. Kimchi, this pickled food, is not exclusively owned by Korean people. Other cultures all over the world have developed a variety of pickled foods with their unique traditions and cultural idiosyncrasies, such as Chinese pocai and Japanese tsukemono. The earliest written records of Chinese pocai appeared in Shijing (Classic of Poetry). 菹, pronounced as Zu (Salted/pickled vegetables), is Chinese pocai’s ancient Mandarin Chinese character. It’s defined as Zhacai, as in sour vegetables. Japanese tsukemono was initially mentioned in Syosoing Monjo as Susubori. It was brought into Japan by a Baekje man named Susubori. This pickling technique was actually taken from China to Korea, and then Korea to Japan.
In different areas in Korea with different weather, Kimchi has its own local development too – Alaska Pollock Kimchi in Gangwon Province and Bossam Kimchi in Gyeonggi Province to name a few. In their busy life in Korea, the people still eat Kimchi every day. In order to provide such needed amount, they make plenty of Kimchi in advance before the winter comes. Kimjang; Making and Sharing Kimchi has become an intangible cultural heritage.
In addition, increasing amount of group catering and technology development helped Korea build Kimchi factories in 1900s. In 1993 Korea made its first Kimchi refrigerator. It is not just a side dish on a dining table. It has been integrated as a way of life. Chinese people have plain congee with pork floss, as well as Korean people have their noodles with Kimchi.
Through research we have known that Korean people have higher dependence on Kimchi in women than men, and in the middle-aged than the young. However, Korean people are not fully familiar with the history and cultural awareness in Kimchi. Therefore, how to bring those into attention for Korean people is what I want to discuss in my thesis. |