| 摘要: | 精品皮包在女性雜誌中經常占據重要篇幅,成為女性雜誌讀者重要的閱讀經驗之一,多數女性雜誌介紹的精品皮包大多所費不貲,對多數人說是「奢侈品」 (luxury goods)的象徵,然而女性雜誌如何「再現」(representation)這些奢侈品、 又是透過甚麼樣的符號與論述建構(construction)奢侈品的意義,至今甚少有研究 進行深入分析,因此本研究的中心問題在質疑「大眾媒介如何建構的奢侈品形 象」?
本研究問題主要的包含兩項:第一,「女性雜誌透過關於時尚精品的再現過程 呈現出甚麼樣的意識形態」、其次是「女性雜誌替讀者建構出了什麼樣的精品意 義」。研究者選擇《VOGUE》以及《Harper’s Bazaar》兩本國際中文版女性雜誌以 及代表台灣本土出刊的《Bella 儂儂》女性雜誌等作為質性分析的對象,希望能 從中發現在國際中文版雜誌與本土雜誌間對精品包的陳述有何不同。研究者認 為,對於女性讀者來說,女性雜誌所呈現的名牌包意義不再只是工具性的用途, 同時透過對於奢侈品的再現與建構,輸出不同意識形態,這些意識型態基本上扣 連到整體社會結構對於女性角色的刻板印象與思維邏輯。 本研究以2012年3月 到2013年3月為範圍,從三本雜誌各挑出六篇與精品包相關的報導共計17篇。蒐 集到的資料將透過論述以及符號學理論,針對文本中的文字與圖片來分析,藉此 了解雜誌中對於精品包報導所使用的描述方式以及所呈現的意識形態。
經由分析統合後發現,雜誌除了喜歡勾勒出社會上一般既定的亮麗、優雅的女 性形象外,現在也逐漸出現提倡女性獨立自主、充滿自信的模樣。雖然如此,但 也是藉由女性主義的觀點,將女性又帶入了另一個設定好的框架中。此外,在精 品包的描述上,經常利用「營造意象」以及「回憶童年」這兩種方式,將閱聽人 與精品包構聯(articulation)起來。此外,蒐集到的17篇報導中,裡面多達七篇文章 提到「經典」,不同品牌、不同款式的精品包報導,不約而同反覆出現「經典」 的辭彙。強調「經典」是藉由廣大群眾喜愛,並且流傳多年的包包,與情感上產 生連結之外,也透過暗喻暗示,經得起時間考驗的包包值得擁有。
綜合以上分析,可以獲得女性雜誌中的精品包報導,大多以客觀中立報導的型 式,本質上卻是不斷灌輸閱聽人對於女性刻板的意識形態,藉以刺激購買的慾 望,實踐消費社會中利用消費獲得身分。
The boutique purses occupy most of the coverage in women fashion magazines. Those publications make influential reading experience to their audiences. Since those boutique purses cost much higher than other ones, people regard them as icons of luxury goods. However, the course is still vague that women’s magazines to represent the luxury goods, and the effort to construct the images of boutique. Therefore, the study would try to clear a path referring to the construction of boutique purse in mass media.
We, in this study, divide the core issue into two dimensions:
1.What kind ideology was claimed during women’s magazines representing boutique purses?
2.When the magazines covering these boutique purses, what kind of meaning is constructed onto readers’ cognition?
The scope of this research contains three magazine publications, which are VOGUE and Harper’s Bazaar in their international Chinese edition, and a local one named Bella 儂儂 in Taiwan. Based on qualitative research methods, our aim is to tell the exotic two magazines from the local one, with their statement while covering boutique purses.
For female readers, we assume that the magazines represent the boutique purses much far from a materialistic angle, but deliver the ideology, which linked with female stereotype obtained from our society, by both representation and construction of luxury goods.
We choose 17 articles which published from March, 2012 to March 2013.(6 articles are from VOGUE, 6 from Harper’s Bazaar , and 5 from Bella 儂儂 .) Executing methods contributed from discourse analysis and semiotics, we try to interpret text and pictures. Thus it is more conceivable that how women magazines voice the statement and claim the ideology while featuring boutique purses.
Result show that women magazines are prone to depict females possessing bright, elegant characters. In addition to these stereotype images, more articles are going to cast independence, self-confidence in female characters. Hens, drawing support from feminism, women magazines has set another frame, luring readers to leap. Furthermore, magazines conduct the atmosphere, and manipulate the diaspora derived from childhood. The strategies make articulations between the audience and those boutique purses. In 7 out of 17 articles, the description “classical” is widely used in all kinds of brand purses. It seems that “classical” may gain applause when it leads a durable image in time’s flow. And anyone should have had one like this.
Consequently, women magazines coverage about boutique purses seems to be neutral, its essential aim though, embedding ideology of female stereotypes in people’s minds. Thus, women magazines spur audience to purchase boutique purses, in order to gain self-identification amid this capitalist society. |
